Prices do not reflect the price of $200 lock which we will bill separately after your order. After you place your order, you will get an email with instructions on how to pay for your lock. (By separating the billing we are able to avoid excise tax complications.)
$875 Base Price Kit = $1075 Total - $200 Round-Faced Lock billed separately (do not purchase through the store)
After you place your order, within 48 hours you will get an email with instructions on how to pay for your lock. (By separating the billing we are able to avoid excise tax complications.)
$1075 total Standard Maple, Walnut or Cherry. $875 plus $200 lock billed separately
$1200 total if Fancy Maple. $1000 plus $200 lock billed separately
$1315 total if Extra Fancy Maple. $1125 plus $200 lock billed separately
Shipping typically runs around $40-$100 but varies based on location.
This service is available as an add on to a kit gun order. This is $700 for Jim to assemble a kit gun that you purchase.
A gun provided "in the white" will be completely assembled and functional. The wood will need sanded and finished. The metal will also benefit from some cleanup. This is typically a little light filing on the rough spots followed by a little polishing with abrasive paper. The metal can be left in this condition or can be blued, browned, aged etc.
Your kit will arrive assembled, ready for you to customize and finish.
We recommend the work of talented and experienced gunsmith, Chuck Edwards, for those who would like additional finishing work done on their Kibler Rifle. He can be reached at (573) 568-2075 and his online page is found on Facebook. He has finished out many Kibler rifles and does fantastic work. The pricing will vary depending on the work and should be discussed with Chuck.
To obtain a tight wood to metal fit, it is advisable to have a slight draft (2-3 degrees typical) on most metal parts being fit. This draft is included on appropriate parts, but it is typically beneficial to clean up the part edges just slightly with a fine file prior to fitting. Maintain the slight draft during this process.
Inlets have been designed such that parts will either fit with little to no work or just be slightly tight to allow for variations in cast part size. When fitting parts that are slightly tight, wood can be trimmed with a very sharp chisel, knife or gouge. Small amounts of metal can also be removed from the part edges.
The use of transfer color to indicate tight spots is advisable. This can be soot from a candle, soot mixed with small amount of oil brushed on the part, Prussian blue etc. Care should be taken to only use a very small amount of transfer color when fitting.
Fitting barrel and tang to stock
The barrel is designed to be 100% inlet and should require no additional work to fit it to the stock. The stock could slightly change dimensions with changes in environment (humidity), so there is a slight possibility some fitting could be required. If so, a fine file on edge can be used to slightly open of the barrel channel. Alternatively, abrasive paper can be attached to a flexible piece of metal.
It is a good idea to check barrel to wood contact at the breech location with transfer color. Very little if any wood will need to be removed. It is VERY important that the breech position not change any appreciable amount. Shaving a few thousandths in adjusting the breech fit will not cause problems, but excessive wood removal will.
The tang will require a small amount of fitting. The inlet for the back and bottom of the bolster will need to be squared up.
2. Installing trigger plate and trigger
The trigger plate should fit the inlet with very little fitting. After squaring up the small rounded corners of the inlet, the plate should fit in place.
Secure the plate and tang by installing the tang bolt from the tang side, threading into the trigger plate.
Install the small wood screw in the back of the plate. A small pilot hole should be drilled first.
Pin the trigger in place through the pre-drilled hole in the stock and trigger.
3. Installing the buttplate
The buttplate inlet has been cut close to the buttplate shape, however a small amount of inletting will be required.
Buttplates have been straightened to match the wood shape, but some small amount of straightening may be beneficial. In this case a vise and adjustable wrench can be used.
It is a good idea to slightly file the buttplate edges which mate with the wood to provide a clean surface for inletting.
When fitting the buttplate to the stock, use transfer color and carefully remove contact points with a chisel or file until a relatively close fit is achieved.
Secure the buttplate by installing the included screws. After the buttplate is screwed in place, the fit can be adjusted by using a hammer to peen the soft brass against the wood. This will allow small gaps to be closed.
Note that the pilot hole in wood for top of buttplate is offset forward on the stock. This is intentional and helps pull buttplate forward as the screw is tightened.
Installing underlugs
The sides of the pre-cut dovetails may need to be filed slightly to accept the underlugs. A three-cornered file is used for this process. It is best to have one edge of the file ground “safe” so that the dovetail bottom is not made deeper in this process.
Install underlugs by tapping into dovetails with a hammer and piece of wood, brass or aluminum. This prevents the hammer from marking the underlug.
If underlugs are loose, they can be clinched in place by tapping on edge of dovetail with a hammer and dull cold chisel or screw driver. This is done while the underlug is in place.
After underlugs are fit, the sides should be filed flush with the barrel
In order to drill pin holes in underlugs, install barrel in the stock and using a 1/16” drill bit and hand drill, continue pre-drilled stock holes through each underlug.
Take care when drilling to keep drill in line with pre-drilled stock holes. This helps prevent excess wood being removed during drilling process.
It is a good idea to slightly elongate pin holes on lugs to allow for wood dimensional change. This is most easily accomplished with either a jeweler's saw or small round file.
5. Installing the box lid and catch spring
After fitting the buttplate, file the buttplate dovetail cut-out to match the wood inlet while the buttplate is installed. The brass is relatively soft and files easily. A medium to coarse three-cornered file works best. Care should be taken to not remove too much material. Do not open up the wood inlet, rather only file the brass to match the wood size.
At this point, the wood box lid should fit the box inlet. Adjust fit if necessary by removing wood from the box lid or inlet. A three-cornered file works well for this task.
After the box fits the inlet, file and sand the end flush with the buttplate. As an option, a brass end plate can be attached to the back of the box lid. In this case, the box must be trimmed in length, the plate must be bent, pinned or screwed in place and then filed to match the box lid and buttplate.
Next install the box catch spring by screwing in place. File the notch in the spring to adjust the fit if necessary. The spring can by bent to adjust the pre-load or tension.
6. Installing the lock
The lock inlet should be close to finish size. If some fitting is necessary, proceed as discussed in the general procedure of “Notes on fitting parts to stock”
When installing the lock, particular care must be paid to the fit between the lock bolster and the side of the barrel. The bolster should contact the barrel with no gap present. The bolster may need to be filed slightly to provide for a good fit. When properly fit the plate should bottom out in the inlet and the bolster should contact the side of the barrel.
7. Installing the sideplate
The side plate should fit with no additional wood removal. Bolt lock and sideplate in place with lock bolts.
It may be necessary to trim the front lock bolt a very small amount to prevent interference with the frizzen spring.
8. Testing lock and adjusting trigger
Test the lock function out of the stock. With the flint removed for safety, work the lock while out of the stock. Inspect the sear and tumbler relationship. Make sure the sear is falling fully into the full cock notch when the lock is cocked. Apply pressure the sear while holding the cock to feel the sear/tumbler engagement. Make sure there is positive engagement.
If everything feels fine, replace the flint and trip the lock with the frizzen closed, multiple times. Make sure your fingers are clear of the flint travel path. This process will help ensure the lock is functioning properly.
Coat the entire internal lock surface with a very light coat of transfer color (Prussian blue, inletting black, candle soot etc.). Install the lock in the stock without the trigger in the stock. Bolt in place.
Cycle the lock from the rest position, to the half cock position and finally to the full cock position. Remove the lock, being careful to not have fingers in the path of the cock should the lock trip while being removed. After the lock is out of the stock, lower the cock to the rest position.
Inspect the wood for any areas where transfer color has indicated the moving parts of the lock have touched the wood. If any of these locations are noted, remove the wood with a chisel or gouge. Pay particular attention to the hole that the sear arm extends into.
If there is wood interference, this could prevent the lock from functioning properly. Repeat the above steps until there is absolutely no wood interference on the lock moving parts.
After the steps outlined above are complete, install the lock and trigger in the stock. Make sure the bolts holding the lock and trigger are tightened. Hold the trigger between your thumb and finger and attempt to move it back and forth.
There should be slack between the trigger and the lock sear. That is, you should have to pull the trigger back just slightly until the trigger engages the sear.
You must have slack at half cock and full cock. There should be absolutely no pressure on the lock sear unless the trigger is pulled.
If there is contact with the sear, remove the trigger and file material from the top of the trigger bar (area that contacts sear). Install in the stock and test for the proper trigger/sear clearance. Repeat these steps until the proper fit is achieved.
9.Installing the guard
Fit the guard to the stock using the same general process as discussed for fitting other metal parts. The guard may have to be bent slightly for proper alignment.
Clamp guard tightly to the stock and continue pre-drilled pin holes through the guard tabs.
When installing pins for the first time, but sure to file or grind a generous taper to the pin ends to aid in alignment.
11. Installing the ramrod pipes
Ramrod pipes should fit with little to no wood removal. Install in the inlet and check for fit. If any interference in noted, spot using transfer color and remove wood where necessary.
Pin holes are pre-drilled in the stock and ramrod pipes. File or grind a generous taper or lead on pins prior to installing.
12. Installing the nose cap
Adjust the nose cap to fit the barrel by filing if necessary. It is sometimes necessary to deepen the barrel cut-out slightly such that the nose cap fits the stock and barrel simultaneously.
Adjust the wood to metal fit between the stock and the nose cap if necessary. The rear most portion of the cap should fit against the stock with no visible gap.
At this point the muzzle cap can be attached to the stock. The easiest method to perform this task is to use two-part epoxy to fix the cap in place while the barrel is installed in the stock. A generous coating of wax must be applied to the barrel to prevent the epoxy for sticking. After the epoxy has cured, the cap must be pinned in place with brass rivets. Epoxy alone will not hold the cap in place over time.
Brass pins are provided to rivet the cap to the stock. Drill two 1/16” holes through the stock and cap. These holes should start in the center of the 45 degree barrel inlet surface and head perpendicular to the outside of the stock. Lightly chamfer the wood and brass. Insert the pins from the barrel inlet side through the nose cap. Trim the pins such that only approximately 1/32” of the pin material extends beyond the cap. Install the barrel in the stock and lightly peen the pins to clinch the cap in place. File material flush with nose cap and file any pin which extends into the barrel channel.
12. Installing sights
Pre-cut dovetails will likely need to be adjusted slightly in width to allow the sights to enter. A snug, slip fit is desired. This width can be adjusted with a three-cornered file. It is best to have an edge of the file ground “safe”.
13. Installing touch hole liner
If barrel is drilled and tapped for the touch hole liner, proceed as follows: Screw touch hole liner into barrel to a snug fit with pliers. Vise grip style locking pliers work well. Do not over tighten. Cut the excess touch hole liner off with a hacksaw or jewelers saw. Carefully file flush with the barrel surface. When filing the liner, take care to not damage the barrel side flat surface.
14. Installing the ramrod tip
Tap ramrod tip onto ramrod. Using a #50 drill, carefully drill through tip and ramrod. Slightly countersink each side of this hole. Insert provided finish nail into the hole, cut to length and then gently peen ends to lock the tip in place. File flush.
15. Metal finishing
Barrel will need to be drawfiled. This is accomplished using a single cut mill file. Usually a 6-8” file works well. In practice the file is held nearly perpendicular to the barrel axes and pushed or pulled lengthwise with the barrel. This produces long, finely sheared cuts and a relatively smooth finish. The barrel can be further smoothed, if desired, with abrasive paper.
Any remnants of gating on cast hardware should be removed with a file. Any visible parting lines should be removed as well. Surfaces should then be finely filed and sanded.
Barrels can be finished using a variety of methods. Some of these include, blueing, browning, or various aging techniques.
16. Wood finishing
After all parts are fit, wood shape should be adjusted if necessary such that wood doesn't extend beyond the metal parts. This process is usually very minimal. Wood can be removed with fine files or abrasive paper. After shaping is complete, the entire wood surface can be sanded starting with approximately 150 grit and working to 320 grit paper. Alternatively, the stock can be scraped with cabinet scrapers.
Maple stocks can be stained with commercially available aniline dyes. Iron nitrate can also be used. This is a high quality traditional longrifle wood stain.
