Tannic Acid Powder
Tannic Acid Powder
Tannic Acid Powder
Tannic Acid Powder
Tannic Acid Powder

Tannic Acid Powder

Regular price $10.00

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Tannic acid is used in conjunction with ferric or iron nitrate (also available from Kibler's Longrifles) in the staining process to accentuate maple figure. A solution of tannic acid (1 Tbs dissolved in 1 pint of water) is prepared and applied to the bare stock. After this dries, the iron nitrate is applied. A reaction between the iron nitrate and tannic acid occurs forming an iron tannate compound which is very dark in color. Once it air dries, the surface should be heated with a heat gun. After this step, the entire stock is quite dark.

Next comes abrading the stock to work the stain off the long grain wood to bring out the figure. This process relies in the varying grain direction of figured wood. The stain can be fairly easily removed from the long grain regions, but is quite permanent in the end grain areas since the stain is absorbed pretty deeply.

A combination of fine sand paper and woven abrasive Scotch-Brite pads work well. It is also helpful to use oil or finish during this process, to keep the abrasives from becoming plugged and to evaluate the progress.

After the stock was worked back sufficiently, apply finish.

The photos shown are real results attained following these instructions. This shows burl maple, but this method will also work well on other highly figured maple.

Tannic Acid Powder

$10.00
  • 5 stars: 43 (93%)
  • 4 stars: 1 (2%)
  • 3 stars: 2 (4%)
  • 2 stars: 0 (0%)
  • 1 star: 0 (0%)
T
Tim Thomas Thomas
Product is fantastic

Product is fantastic. Easy to use and really accentuates the grain in curly maple. 5 stars

D
Dave
Great product. Works as advertised. Very satisfied.

Straight forward, predictable results, follow the directions. In combination with Iron Nitrate, another Kibler quality product, this stuff will seriously highlight the stripes in curly maple. To be honest, I'm not good at following directions. I used it half strength to darken the "striping" without making it super dark. Worked as predicted. Great product. Easy to use. Try it on some test pieces, first (I rubbed mine back so it was mostly "in the stripes and not on the "long grain").

A
Andrew Kodak
Adds a new Punch under the Iron Nitrate used it

Adds a new Punch under the Iron Nitrate used it on a Maple knife handle I made from the scraps in my Fowler kit.

F
F. Mark Combs
Tannic Acid was a good start

Combination of Tannic Acid and ferrous Oxide gave me the colors I wanted. I followed the enclosed instructions to the letter and the process was simple and straightforward. Then I went with ferrous oxide, and lastly I added one rag-swipe of dark yellow aniline dye, then finished with Tru-oil.

P
Patrick Gibbons
I haven’t got a chance to use it yet

I have been too busy to use it as of yet

R
Robert Losekamp
Works as intended, great contrast.

Happy as can be.

H
Hunter Fort
Tannic Acid and Aqua Fortis review

Very pleased with using the Tannic Acid and Aquafortis combo. Applied one coat Tannic (left to dry), then one coat of Aquafortis (left to dry) and then repeated the process another time then blushed with heat. The results were outstanding on a piece of highly figured curly maple!

B
Brian Beck
Tannic Acid Powder

Instructions are easy to follow and it's easy to apply. Really helps bring out the full character of curly maple. I wouldn't finish a maple stocked longrifle without it!

b
brian rappmundt
Best muzzleloader kit on the market

Outstanding kit and amazing customer service. Answered all of my questions in a timely fashion

J
Jerry Scott
Easy to use and gives great results.

The tannic acid powder significantly enhanced the contrast in the curly maple. Easy to mix and use. A little goes a long way.

E
Eric Leonard
Great color

Used as prescribed by Dr. Kibler and the results were great!

E
Ed Rogers
I didn’t need

I didn’t need it

M
Michael Frane
Actually I used it for gun metal rust treatment

Actually I used it for gun metal rust treatment. Mix a very small portion in about 2oz of water then apply it with a small brush to bare metal and it creates a finish like parkerizing which is used on rifles etc for rust prevention. See M1 Garand or Colt 1911 WW II examples

A
Anonymous
Itt' stock; I am a woodworker of 35+ years, and a

It's just stock to me; I am a woodworker of 35+ years, and a graduate of a Master's-level Furniture Conservation program. It's one of many chemicals I keep around for when I need it. I had run out, and I was glad to find it.
Thank you.

R
Rex Engle
Used Tannic Acid inaccording to Jim’s YouTube

Used Tannic Acid in combination with Iron Nitrate according to Jim’s YouTube video, it gets awfully dark so you must be ready to do a lot of rubbing back and then adding stains/tints to warm up the colors. If I use it in the future, probably will do one coat of Tannic and one coat of Iron Nitrate. It does produce a finish with a lot of contrast.

P
PAUL HINKLE

AS DESCRIBED

R
Ron Lowrance
didn't use

I purchased this product, but after viewing some videos I decided not to use the product. It wasn't very expensive so I'm not out much. I used Kiblers iron nitrate and Kiblers gun stock finish. I'm happy with the results.

B
Bart Dellinger
Tannic Acid

I am always happy with Kibler's Longrifles products and service. For the first time I tried their tannic acid and I am thrilled with the results. When used on figured Maple the stripes and figure are more vivid. The curl just pops! Thanks Jim and your team for great sales and service!!

Bart

T
Todd Clayton

I haven't used it yet

d
denver tyler
Tannic acid

Haven’t received my kits yet so nothing to tell yet

R
Richard Horn
Kibler Fowler using Tannic acid and Nitrate acid

Going by the video that Jim Kibler had out using Tannic acid and Nitrate acid I decided to give it a go!
I had always used just nitrate acid and some aniline dye to get the color I wanted and I did the same this time. I put one coat of tannic acid and left it dry, another coat of nitrate acid and left it dry before going over the wood with a heat gun to get the brown color. I wasn't that pleased with the results after heating the wood and then going over it with a maroon scotch pad and finishing oil, not to my liking!
I then mixed up some aniline dye using red , yellow and a little brown to get the results that I liked.

E
Eric Coker
Tannic Acid

Tannic Acid darkens the end grain dramatically, did exactly what it was advertised to do. It did remove the warm reddish tones from the Iron Nitrate resulting in an amber color in the lighter portions of the stock.

J
Jeff Suber
tannic acid

If you follow Jim's videos (closely, several times) and read the attached instructions with the product, it works as described. It met my expectations and provided the "look" I wanted.

B
Brian Scherer

Have not used as of now...waiting for woodsrunner to be shipped to use on

T
Timothy Lambert

Tannic Acid Powder

D
Donnie Perdue

Works great

R
Russell W
Tannic acid

Good stuff. You only need one teaspoon to treat an entire stock twice. I think it’s 6oz of water -1tsp

Shipping

Liquid Shipping

Liquids will not ship in the kit box. There are different regulations that apply to the chemicals that we sell and they will need to ship ground, when the kits will ship USPS Priority Mail. Plus, it would really stink if a liquid were to leak on your beautiful new kit!

Order tracking

You will receive tracking information when your item ships. For kits, you will be contacted before shipment and after shipment so there is no need to worry about a kit box shipping when you are out of town. All other packages will ship when available and you will be emailed a tracking link.

Get in touch

If you have questions, feel free to email us at info@kiblerslongrifles.com or give us a call at 330-551-5844. Even if you have to leave a message, we promise to get back with you right away. Bree can answer most questions and she will be sure to ask Jim when needed.